Friday, November 24, 2006

Zanksgeeving!

Today was maybe the first day since I've been in France that I have really, honest-to-God wanted to be in the US more than in Paris (and on Long Island, too, of all places...). Thanksgiving is by far my favorite holiday (food! it's only about food!), and I've been having actual dreams about my Uncle Dave's sweet potato purée. Today was just like any other Thursday, which means that I woke up at 6:30 AM, went to two classes, wolfed down a kebab sandwich thing, and then took a longgg nap. The whole time, all I could think about was my normal Thanksgiving routine, which is waking up late, rolling out of bed to the best cooking smells in the whole world, and spending the whole day relaxing, reading, talking to my family and then EATING so many of my favorite things all in one meal. And afterwards spending a leisurely evening digesting and, every so often hoisting oneself towards the dessert table to pour another cup of coffee and squeeze one last sliver of pumpkin pie (or one last spoonful of whipped cream) in on top of several helpings of turkey and stuffing and potatoes and cranberry relish and oh... oh. Just the best.
That said, Sweet Briar did their best to make it up to us by hosting a program dinner at Altitude 95, the restaurant on the first level of the Eiffel Tower. The food was nothing to write home about (pumpkin-esque soup, turkey stuffed with... more turkey, potatoes, green beans, some chocolate-raspberry-vanilla pastry cream thing), but it was the first time I've been up the tower (or even anywhere high) since being in Paris this time, and the first time ever at night, and all of us were giddy with the novelty of it all. Kate and I took the bus there, a route I had never been before, which hit a lot of the major sites -- the grands magasins, windows already decorated for Christmas, the old Opéra, a quick peek down the Champs Elysées, a tour around la Madeleine, and a quick hop over the Seine, Eiffel Tower twinkling away -- and then took the elevator up with the group. The view, of course, was wonderful -- I do love Paris at night, and now that I know the city better I can actually make some sense of the pigeon's eye view and where things are in relation to each other ("I can see my house from here!") -- and it was really nice to spend a few hours eating and relaxing with my friends on someone else's tab. So the day wasn't a total loss, I suppose.
Of course, if anyone wants to cook me a mock-Thanksgiving when I come home (four weeks from tomorrow!) I won't say no. I'm looking at you, Roger Turner.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

An Ode to François Mittérand

So... François Mittérand, president of the Fifth Republic of France from 1981 to 1995, first Socialist president of the Fifth Republic, responsible for the bombing of the Greenpeace ship the Rainbow Warrior, initiator of a wealth tax in France, family man, ex-spy, adulterer. Most pertinent to this blog entry, however, is this: he really liked to build stuff. During his term as president, he initiated a series of grands travaux (literally "Big Works" or "Big Constructions") which include the construction of the Chunnel, the business district La Défense (actually outside the city boundaries), IM Pei's pyramid at the Louvre, the Bastille Opera House, and the Bibliothèque nationale de France. This weekend, I visited three of them, kind of by accident, but took pictures and am therefore going to share them with you.

This is the Grande Arche at La Défense. It's meant as sort of an architectural echo to the monuments of the rest of the city -- specifically the Arc de Triomphe and Napoleon's Triumphal Arch in the Tuileries -- and actually lines up with them along the Champs Elysées and the Avenue de la Grande Armée -- you can see the Arc de Triomph from this Arche, but you can't see the third, so I guess you just kind of have to take the French's word for it. Anyway, instead of being pretty and stone, this one is shiny and made of metal, which is a theme for most of the things Mittérand had built (that is, taking pretty stone things and replacing and/or imitating them with ugly metal things.) Anyway, it's funny-lookin', and the rest of La Défense is pretty weird too.





This is what it looks like. You've all seen pictures of Paris (although now that I think on it, I've been pretty negligent about posting my own...), and those pictures, I'm sure, have been pretty accurate -- all those pretty white-gray stone buildings with ironwork railings, lots of leafy avenues and cunning little windy alleyways, etc. etc. Stepping out of the metro at La Défense, however, is like stepping into a different, futuristic world. Or, like, Shanghai. It's totally disconcerting. Anyway, it's apparently the biggest "purpose-built" business district in Europe, and has all sorts of company headquarters, etc., and not a lot of places for people to live, or things for people to do, besides work and maybe eat something for lunch. So far away from the smelly, but definitely lived-in, atmosphere of central Paris.




Seriously. This? So weird.

















This little gem, mes chers amis, is the Bibliothèque (that's "library") nationale de France, AKA the illest-conceived/ugliest architectural endeavor EVER. It, of course, replaced a perfectly nice stone building somewhere in the middle of Paris -- now it's out on the outskirts, in these awful towers, with a serious wind problem. All those little brown door-things had to be installed after it was built to keep too much sunlight from flooding in and damaging the books. It's incredibly hard to get around inside. It's got a garden that NO ONE can get to in the center (the security guard Jake and I talked to said it was "only for the birds"). And, best of all, the towers (there are four in total) create this really intense wind tunnel, so no one can spend any time on this massive expanse of boardwalk in the middle, and the trees in the unusable courtyard have to be CHAINED DOWN so that they don't blow away. Unbelievable. There was, however, a nice photo exhibit inside, and the reading rooms looked pleasant.

This, of course, is the most famous -- and prettiest -- of all the in-Paris building projects -- the pyramids at the Louvre. Although they generated a certain amount of controvery when they were constructed, at least they don't actively damage the art and lively up the courtyard some. Plus, I think they look cool. Good job on this one, François. And Mr. Pei, too, I suppose. I took this today after going to see the Rembrandt drawings exhibit, which was really great (although I had to fork over actual money to go see it, which I did extremely reluctantly), to conclude a lovely afternoon with my friend Kate from Haverford, who's teaching in France, near Strasbourg, for the year. We also went to the museum at the Institut du Monde Arabe, but Mr. Mitterand didn't build that one, so it didn't make the cut.




And as we close this blog entry, a photo of the pyramid, lovely, at night (actually like 6, but so dark out!).

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Incidentally...


I just realized, this very evening, that I live about five blocks away from Les Folies Bergeres. I've probably walked by it about five times, but never noticed it. It was, however, all lit up tonight and a little hard to miss. No liberated, topless 1920's gals gadding about, however.

Sunday, November 12, 2006

School... really?

Hello again. I've been an exceptionally negligent blogger, which of course only means that I've been busy and content. Major events of the last almost-month include: a weekend trip to Provence to visit the Freeman parents (along with Laura, Johann, and many members of the Hutzli family -- the photographs for this blog entry are drawn from that trip), managing to find myself a regular babysitting gig for two small bilingual girls (Clara and Juliet, ages 9 and 6 respectively), a great deal of falafel eaten and my very first-ever French university class assignment -- an oral presentation as a member of a group of me and three other kids, all French -- which brings us to today's subject, at the request of my parents: What School Is Like in France.
I'm taking four classes this semester, which I'll adress one at a time:
-one with my program, called "Atelier d'écriture," which is basically an intensive French language and grammar class, specifically designed to eradicate all of our "anglicisms" and replace them with real, honest-to-God idiomatic French. This is my favorite class, for a number of reasons. First of all, I understand what's going on. It's the most like an American university class, in that it meets twice a week, for an hour and a half each time, there are about 12 kids in my class, it's heavily participatory, etc. etc. It's also my least difficult class -- all of the "homework" consists of one-page free-form essays about things like "A Movie I Saw Recently" and "What I Think About Parisian Fashion," which are graded not on their content but on the quality of the language employed within. The class itself is based on the errors made in these compositions -- that is to say, things we actually need to know. The professor is great, and everything we learn is immediately applicable -- we learn an expression, how to say, for instance "as you go along" (more or less -- it's "au fur et à mesure") -- and I read it later that afternoon in my copy of "Harry Potter et le Prince Sang-Melé", hear it on les infos, and hear my host mom's friend Marika use it in conversation over coffee on Sunday afternoon. Really helpful, really practical, and just kind of fun.

-University class #1 is "Théâtre documentaire et cinéma documentaire," which is, as you might expect, not at ALL about documentary films. The French are confusing. Let me explain to you my situation with this class: I was in a class about Jean Cocteau and Robert Bresson, which got canceled six weeks into the semester (after only meeting twice), because the professor was/is profoundly ill. Immediately afterward, my academic director at the program informed me that I would have to switch into a different class in the same department. Six weeks into the semester. I showed up for the class once -- it meets once a week--, didn't really understand what was going on (as I hadn't done any of the reading or seen any of the movies, so obviously), and was immediately enlisted into an exposé (presentation) group for two weeks later. OK, I thought, I can do this -- I'll have plenty of time to watch the movie and read the book (a play). And I'll have a class in between to figure out what's going on. Not so. My second class was canceled for the Toussaint holiday, and the play turned out to be impossible to find (and almost 300 pages long) -- the guy at the bookstore just laughed at me and told me "good luck!" when I told him I was looking for it. And the girl whose notes I borrowed made no sense and were not at all thorough. And the other kids in the group had four other exposés that week, so aren't really focussed on mine as much I am. It was awful. And I only have one other assignment with which to raise my grade. It's stressful. I did, however, get to hang out with some French kids -- so not a total loss.
-My third and fourth classes are lit classes -- "Ecritures de l'Histoire et poétique de la violence" and "Parcours parallels: Afrique/Maghreb", both good-old fashioned comp lit classes with the fun twist that writing papers in France is nothing like writing papers in the US. The form is extraordinarily rigid -- an introduction paragraph, a paragraph which constructs the problématique, an announcement of your plan ("In the first part of this paper, I will address... ; in the second part, I will address..."), then three large sections, each of which address completely different aspects of the text, with no theme running through the three, necessarily; and then, the conclusion, which is basically just a recap of the intro -- it ends up being about 5 pages in all. Oh, and did I mention? They're handwritten. Which is completely normal here; I think when my third grade teacher told me that I would have to learn cursive because every teacher in high school would require me to write all my assignments in cursive, she really meant that I needed to learn cursive because she knew that I would be spending a year attending a French university. Too bad I didn't pay any attention to her. Anyway, I have one of these due Thursday. It should be pretty easy, but I'm petrified I'm going to mess up on something really stupid like forgetting to put the three requisite dots in the requisite 3-line space between my intro and the first grand partie.

The classes themselves, of course, are different -- the professor, or the presenter, talks, the students take notes -- but not normal notes. Color coded notes, taken with four-color pens and three different highlighters, in perfect cursive, with the headings underlined USING A RULER. Everytime I'm pleased with myself for managing to draw a few key points out of a lecture, my pride is immediately deflated when I look at my neighbor and he (or she) has four pages of impeccably neat notes which look to be a near-word-for-word transcription of the lecture. The kids I'm going to school with have been specializing in literature since they were about 14, when they have to pick a track at lycée, so they've been immersed in the methodology and form for almost seven years -- it's a very different academic culture, and one I'm pretty sure I don't prefer, but it's nevertheless a little frustrating that I'm not familiar with it. The students seem to very much look at school as a job -- they take the metro there, take it home (most still live with their parents) -- school is school, studying is done at home, and they're certainly not there to socialize or make new friends -- although they may socialize with the friends they already have at the fac in the cafeteria or during instant-coffee-from-a-machine-and-cigarette breaks out in the courtyard. Although I'm loving being in Paris right now, I'm almost entirely sure that by the time the year's over, I'll be itching to get back to Haverford academics. Which is exactly the reminder I needed, I suppose.